Having seen finance, VC-istan, and a few other places I think finance is better on average.
People who bash finance are comparing it to some R&D Valhalla that doesn't exist anymore (except perhaps at a few cultural leaders like Valve) where everyone has complete autonomy over their work and no backstabbing exists because everyone is thrilled about what they do. If you compare typical finance jobs to typical real-world software jobs that are available to people without more published papers than years on this planet, then finance wins. That's not to say there aren't bad finance jobs (there are) or that finance is without its problems.
The software industry sucks. Programming is fun, but the software industry itself is a horrible place to be unless you have an edge that can consistently guarantee you a stream of high-quality work and no bullshit, and there isn't a much good work to go around in this industry, so that edge really has to be solid. The way you get good at software (and one of the things I admire greatly about software engineers is that a lot of us genuinely care about being good at our jobs; that's a rarity in the corporate world) is to get good work, but you can't get good work unless people think you're good. Hence, there's that need for some sort of edge when you're starting out. Finance, for its flaws, is a pretty good place to get this sort of edge: it gives you a certain credibility that helps you escape "Just A Programmer" mediocrity.
People who bash finance are comparing it to some R&D Valhalla that doesn't exist anymore (except perhaps at a few cultural leaders like Valve) where everyone has complete autonomy over their work and no backstabbing exists because everyone is thrilled about what they do. If you compare typical finance jobs to typical real-world software jobs that are available to people without more published papers than years on this planet, then finance wins. That's not to say there aren't bad finance jobs (there are) or that finance is without its problems.
The software industry sucks. Programming is fun, but the software industry itself is a horrible place to be unless you have an edge that can consistently guarantee you a stream of high-quality work and no bullshit, and there isn't a much good work to go around in this industry, so that edge really has to be solid. The way you get good at software (and one of the things I admire greatly about software engineers is that a lot of us genuinely care about being good at our jobs; that's a rarity in the corporate world) is to get good work, but you can't get good work unless people think you're good. Hence, there's that need for some sort of edge when you're starting out. Finance, for its flaws, is a pretty good place to get this sort of edge: it gives you a certain credibility that helps you escape "Just A Programmer" mediocrity.